“TAKUMI” is the name given to only the master craftsmen in ancient Japan to honor their superior work.

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An Ancient Art.
For centuries in Japan, skilled artisans constructed castles, temples and other national monuments using mortises, tongue and groove joinery, and wooden dowels and wedges. These magnificent structures, based on precise carpentry cuts rather than nails and other hardware, are still standing today because of their excellent engineering and use of innovative tools such as the pull saw.
The Takumi Series features a full line of outstanding, authentic Japanese pull saws – each designed to cut on the pull stroke which is a more natural movement. Pull saws require much less effort and are infinitely more precise than typical push saws. The pulling action places the ultra-thin blades in tension so they won’t buckle or bind, producing a very narrow kerf and exceptionally fast, smooth cuts with unparalleled accuracy.

Old World Engineering.
Each Takumi saw is crafted using techniques similar to those developed by master craftsmen of the Samurai era. The result is a superior tool delivering superb durability, performance and flexibility.
The process begins by folding sheets of high-grade steel to create a veneer effect, enhancing the strength and flexibility of the blade. The blade is then hollow ground, from the cutting edges (A) to the center (B) and from the hilt (C) to the front edge. The resulting thinner center area minimizes friction and the associated heat generated by cutting, and eliminates the need to set the teeth.
Using a very thin diamond grinding wheel, each tooth is then beveled on three sides, creating a chisel-like point that cleanly slices through wood rather than ripping it. This beveled design also helps automatically eject wood cuttings from the teeth while working. Each tooth is then electrically impulse hardened, keeping them sharper more than three times longer than average saw blades.
Highly-skilled craftsmen, using specially-designed tools, then chisel precisely placed tension grooves on the blade to alleviate stress to the metal during the milling process, as well as during subsequent use. So the blade remains highly flexible, but straight, with virtually no distortion even after many years of use. Finally, each blade is treated with a tough, clear, rust-retardant coating for exceptional durability.

Proper Use.
The Takumi Series is for experienced craftsmen, and correct use is essential. To start your cut, use the heel of the blade and pull back gently. Light pressure is all that is required, as the saw is designed to do all the work. Angle the blade slightly (0-10 degrees) and pull smoothly with light, long strokes for best results.

Maintenance: Takumi blades are made from high carbon steel. Always wipe the blade surface lightly with oil after each use to prevent rusting.

How to replace the blade

 
Releasing metal Releasing blade Inserting blade
Blade release metal Tap The release metal
several times to release the blade
Insert blade into handle and tap the end lightly untill the blade is securely locked in the handle

KUGIHIKI #10-2810 (Replacement blade #01-2810)
Flush Cut Dowel Saw 6-3/4”
Cross Cut 24 tpi, Kerf 0.014”
Kerf 0.014”

Japanese saw Kugihiki

Designed for flush cutting dowels, plugs, wedges and trim material. There is NO SET to the teeth so this saw can trim even to the wood surface without making scratches. It is excellent for use in hardwoods requiring a thin kerf and smooth finish cut. For flush cutting, flex the blade slightly on the work surface (about 2/3 of blade); pull lightly and smoothly towards your body. Because the teeth have no set, do not use this saw for cutting thick materials (recommended maximum thickness is 1/2 inches). DO NOT jerk or force the saw. Use long, smooth strokes.

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AZEBIKI #10-2920 (Replacement blade #01-2920)
Mid Panel Saw 3-1/2”
Cross Cut 15 tpi, Rip 9 tpi
Kerf 0.043”

Japanese saw Azebiki

The Azebiki saw is designed for plunge cutting in a variety of panels such as installing an electrical switch receptacle into a wooden panel, or cutting sliding dovetail slots. The long neck supports a short blade with both rip and crosscut teeth for smooth controlled cuts. The blade has curved cutting edges, allowing the cut to start at the center of the board with no pilot hole required. When cutting a large curve into a panel, keep the blade shallow to the cut, using the front 1/3 of the blade. Begin the cut by working the tip of the blade back and forth until the teeth begin to penetrate the surface. Continue with smooth pull strokes at a 45 degrees angle. Holding the handle with both hands will provide added power and control.

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RYOBA #10-2710 (Replacement blade #01-2710)
Super Fine Cut Double Blade 8-1/4”
Cross Cut 20 tpi & Graduated Rip
Kerf 0.020”

Japanese saw Ryoba

The Ryoba 2710 blade is designed with both rip and super fine crosscut teeth for extremely accurate cutting.
It is exceptionally well suited for cabinetry, furniture
making and other fine wood working projects in medium to hard wood. When cutting thin wood or panels, use a flatter angle to the surface (0 to 10 degrees) to insure minimal wood vibration. Hold the handle with both hands spaced well apart and find the most comfortable position, adjusting slightly for different cutting angles. This saw can be used for flush cutting, but do not over bend the blade. DO NOT force the saw. Long, smooth strokes are best, allowing the weight of the saw to do the cutting.

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RYOBA #10-2720 (Replacement blade #01-2720)
Fine Cut Double Blade 9”
Cross Cut 17 tpi & Graduated Rip
Kerf 0.025”

Japanese saw Ryoba

The Ryoba 2720 blade is designed with both rip and crosscut teeth and a wide blade surface for extremely accurate cutting. It is exceptionally well suited to cabinetry, furniture making and other fine wood working projects in medium to hard wood. When cutting thin wood or panels, use a flatter angle to the surface (0 to 10 degrees) to insure minimal wood vibration. Hold the handle with both hands spaced well apart and find the most comfortable position, adjusting slightly for different cutting angles. This saw can be used for flush cutting, but do not over bend the blade. DO NOT force the saw. Long smooth strokes are best, allowing the weight of the saw to do the cutting

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RYOBA #10-2730 (Replacement blade #01-2730)
General Carpentry Double Blade 10-1/4”
Cross Cut 10 tpi & Graduated Rip
Kerf 0.043”

Japanese saw Ryoba

This Ryoba blade design features both rip and crosscut teeth spaced farther apart, making the saw more
aggressive. A wide blade surface allows accuracy when cutting. This is an excellent saw for thicker wood and large tenions in post and beam construction, as well as for general carpentry. Hold the handle with both hands spaced well apart and find the most comfortable position, adjusting slightly for different cutting angles.
Start cuts using a 0 to 10 degrees cutting angle with short strokes, gradually increasing to full length. DO NOT push down into the wood or jerk back on this or any pull-to-cut handsaw. Pull the saw towards you with long, smooth strokes. long, smooth strokes

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DOZUKI #10-2610 (Replacement blade #01-2610)
Super Fine Cut Saw 9”
Cross Cut 26 tpi, Kerf 0.015”

Japanese saw Dozuki

Designed for delicate and intricate work such as joinery, mortising and dovetailing, this is the finest and most accurate Japanese saw. It is excellent for use in cutting moldings and making clean, splinter-free cuts in cabinetry and furniture-making. The blade is so precise that you can make cuts as thin as 1/32” (sliver off an end of a piece of hardwood). Be careful not to abuse the saw’s thin blade. DO NOT jerk or force the saw. Use light, smooth pull strokes and let the saw do the cutting.

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KATABA #10-2510 (Replacement blade #01-2510)
General Carpentry 12”
Cross Cut 17 tpi, Kerf 0.39”

Japanese saw Kataba

Designed as a saw for general carpentry, the Kataba is very effective in framing and cutting lengthy board, such as plywood, particleboard, and most dimensional lumber. The blade makes extremely fast, smooth cuts. The Kataba is not recommended for finish work or fine cutting

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